Hammer Veneering And Unruly Veneers

I’ve done a few flat veneering projects (up to about 15 X 40″) using this home build press method (& PVA glue) and they turned out well. I’ve also done smaller curved stuff using the iron on PVA approach and it works too. I recommend Mike Burton’s book, “Veneering – A Foundation Course”. He covers most of the bases and shows how to make some basic veneering tools.

Not long after hanging up the phone, I jumped onto youTube to see if there was anything to do with hide glue or http://old.lei.lt/co2mmunity/our-top-wood-carving-tips-for-beginners/. I came across a familiar name – Rob Millard. I have admired Rob’s work for years and seeing his name was like seeing a familiar face at the airport. I watched his 2 part series on hammer veneering.

Hammer Veneering With Steve Latta

When working in this more modern way, it’s typical to use modern glues. Unfortunately, there are no shortcuts or workarounds with either method. I just found your website and think it is awesome. I got done watching the videos on hide glue. I have been trying to do veneer projects with several different types of glue.

Don’t start with crotch mahogany or burls–they’re going to fight you until you learn the process. Get some simple pieces of veneer that you can trust and a piece of scrap pine and get veneering. Last photo is of how what would have been an easy initial repair with hot hide glue, ended up ruining the face when someone attempted to stick it down with modern adhesive.

By sawing it into veneers you can stretch its beauty out across a panel. I’ve been steaming dents for decades with a household iron. I don’t put water in it,but use wet rags and iron through them to focus the steam on the dent.

Patrick Edwards Demonstrates How Hide Glue Allows You To Quickly Add Veneer To A Piece Without Clamps Or A Vacuum Bag

So much information packed into such a short time. Probably one of the best video series ever on FWW. Maybe one more video to teach us about how to choose a proper veneer saw and hammer would be helpful. One thing that’s easy to do with the hammer venturing is to put banding on the edge of a piece of wood. Remember, veneer used to be part of a tree, and as a result it has a heartwood side and a sapwood side.

This is another advantage traditional glue has over modern types. I really enjoy hammer veneering and look for excuse to employ the technique. I use the exact same technique as you describe above. The tape usually peels off as you ‘squee-gee’ the hot glue. If there’s any residue or film left after the veneer is set- that get’s removed when the surface is scrapped before finishing. If you’re using MDF or really smooth plywood as your core material, then toothing the surface may be beneficial.

Edit – Also don’t expect absolute perfection in joints when veneering. That’s why all the Marquetry gurus have old prescription bottles filled with sawdust. I can’t figure out when I’ve cut all the way through both layers of veneer. I often feel like I’m done, but really I’ve cut through an average of 1.75 layers.

As I was mixing my first few batches I was running back and forth from the house to re-watch the DVD to get a sense of the consistency of the glue running off Rob’s brush. It was only after I stopped running back and forth that I realized I could have just brought my laptop into the shop. First – get Rob’s DVD. The first disk alone is well worth the cost of admission. Rob has a very no-nonsense manner about him and watching him work is an incredible education.